Sharad kohli
Today, food crosses borders via videos, podcasts and reels, and access to national, regional and local cuisines has made foodies out of many of us. What it has also done is reveal that rare is the cuisine which is 100 per cent authentic – in other words, not influenced by the culinary culture of another country or region.
Before globalization, it was through colonialism that vegetables and fruits, legumes and tubers, and grains and spices indigenous to one part of the world, crossed continents to shape – and fuse with – local eating habits and ways of cooking. This is as much true of Mexican food as it is of any other, and in January this year, a slice of Mexico came to Gurgaon promising a fiesta of flavours. Since then, Encanto (Tower-1, Magnum Global Park, Golf Course Extension Road) has been endearing itself to the city’s gourmands.
It's a space that features, yet also goes beyond, all the usual Mexican favourites we know – nachos, enchiladas, quesadillas, burritos, et al. – but done very well, and cutting no corners. The stamp of approval? The Mexican ambassador dropping in at Encanto more than once for a bit of nosh! Indeed, the team here has set high standards, stepping out of its comfort zone to source ingredients that can bring out authentic Mexican flavours and textures – from the seasoning to the Masa (maize, corn) flour used in making the tortillas.
And I’m happy to share I wasn’t left disappointed…
The afternoon got under way with the no-fuss in-house Salsa and Tortilla Chips, a crunchy and tangy start that was paired with Encanto Picante, a cocktail perfect for the season: Tequila, fresh cilantro, jalapeño, agave and lime juice, with a generous sprinkling of Tajin salt (chilli peppers, lime and salt) around the rim of the glass. Refreshing and summer-light, with just the right amount of ‘kick’.
For starters, I plumped for the Prawn Ala Diabla and Smoked Chorizo Tostado. In the former, prawns, tender and juicy, were served on soft house-pressed tacos alongside a spiced tomato sauce, guacamole, rocket leaves and toasted pine nuts. If that was subtle, the tostado was robust, all thanks to the smoky flavour of the pork sausages. These bites came on flat tortillas, toasted and topped with bean paste, goat cheese and avocado slices.
It was a one-two punch that whetted my appetite for more delights from this Mexican kitchen. On, then, to the main course…
The menu has plenty of options in entrées, among which is the Slow-braised Lamb Birria, which I resolved to order on my next visit. It being a day in May, however, I chose something that would be hearty without being heavy. The Black Grilled Chicken Bowl turned out to be food for the soul, a happy helping of rice, beans, pico de gallo, guacamole, and corn (though the sour cream here was, I felt, surplus to requirements).
Another must-try is the Tlacoyo, a dish that goes back to Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past – somewhat like a tortilla, except that it is made from Masa dough, making it thicker than the ubiquitous pancake. The patty-shaped tlacoyo, a popular street food, is stuffed with fillings before being cooked (fried or toasted); it is usually had with salsa (or guacamole), either as a topping or by the side. At Encanto, you can choose tlacoyos with vegetarian (black beans, cheddar, pico de gallo and pulled jackfruit; or, paprika cottage cheese) and non-vegetarian (Poblano-marinated chicken, slow-braised lamb, spicy prawns, or roasted pork) stuffing.
Well-fed but unwilling to leave without a sweet flourish, I decided to round the meal off with the Margarita Mousse Cheesecake, a deliciously creamy, almost citrusy, concoction in which the cheesecake, served on a Graham cracker crust, is infused with the classic cocktail.
In an age of here-today-gone-tomorrow trends, I do hope Encanto is able to carve a niche for itself in the highly competitive domain of F&B, all the while continuing to delight patrons new and old. At the end of the day, it’s the food – curated with thought, prepared with soul, and served with heart – that matters, and Encanto certainly delivers on that front.
(The writer visited Encanto on invitation)
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