Anika Sabharwal 28 Aug, 2024
A sparkling glacial lake in an unimaginable shade of blue—was I dreaming or was it real? Canada is blessed with natural beauty. While a regular tourist would focus on Niagara Falls—or cities like Toronto, Vancouver and Montreal—I for one wouldn’t be satisfied with just that. Lucky to be visiting Calgary, Alberta, for work in October—the surrounds bedecked with fall’s golden colours, and just before it became too cold to venture out—I had all my weekends planned out. Top of the list: Banff National Park and Jasper National Park. And, also, Vancouver (for the touristy stuff).
With its abundance of lakes, snow-capped mountains and exotic wildlife, Banff in Alberta is one of the most beautiful destinations. This was my maiden trip to the country, and I was super excited about my solo adventure. Since I was on a budget, and not too comfortable driving, I got on a bus at Calgary, from where it took around two hours to reach Banff.
Once there, I used ‘Roam,’ Banff’s public-transit facility which covers some of the most iconic destinations. The service is free for tourists putting up in some of the hotels here, including HI Banff Alpine Centre, the youth hostel where I was staying. The mixed dorm (CAD$55+, CAD$200 for a private room) was pretty neat, clean and safe, and the staff super-friendly. The thing about hostels is that you meet some lovely people, and everyone shares their experiences—and you get to know of even better places to travel to than the ones you originally had in mind.
Slog & indulge
After settling in, it was time to venture out, and the first port-of-call on my list was the Cave and Basin National Historic Site, a world-renowned spot where hot mineral springs were discovered in 1883 by three railway workers. This discovery eventually led to the creation of Banff, Canada’s first national park. I had an option to do a tour of the site (CAD$9)—literally a cave with a hot water spring—or a hike. Short on time and budget, I opted for the 2.6km Marsh Loop trail (free and easy), which surrounds a wetland filled with hot springs.
After the hike, I was famished and craved for good food (and good views!). What could be better than enjoying a meal at Fairmont Banff Springs, an iconic castle in the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountains converted into an ultra-luxurious hotel? Built in 1888, this Scottish baronial castle offers guests spectacular mountain and valley views. A one-night stay here costs around CAD$1,500, clearly out of my budget. But the thought of having a delicious meal surrounded by the majestic peaks was simply irresistible. Also, it’s possible to explore some parts of the hotel and admire the gorgeous architecture even without staying there.
‘Roam’ route no. 2 from downtown dropped me right at the hotel. As I got off the bus, I stood there for a few moments trying to absorb the beauty of this building. It was stunning and dreamy, making me feel as if I had landed inside a fairytale—perhaps my knight in shining armour would be waiting at the doorstep to welcome his princess! Alas, it was only the hospitality staff who welcomed me, though they all did so with huge smiles. With the sun starting to set, I made my way to the restaurant and quickly grabbed a seat by the window, to enjoy a scrumptious coffee and falafel wrap, while the skies dramatically changed colour and a drizzle set in. It was an out-of-the-world experience.
Even after sundown, my day wasn’t done yet. After soaking in the beautiful panoramas of Banff, it was time to take a soak in the hot waters. I headed towards the Upper Hot Springs (CAD$17.50), the highest operating hot spring in Canada. Having visited public hot springs in India, which are usually very basic and lack proper changing facilities, I was thrilled to see showers, changing rooms and lockers that were well maintained. The hot-water pool was big enough and clean, and with a decent crowd (read: without guys gawking at you in a swimsuit), allowing me to relax and enjoy the mineral-rich water melting away all the tiredness from my body.
Back at the hostel, I tiptoed into my dorm room, changed and slept after setting the alarm for early morning, while saying to myself, “Tomorrow is another day” (my favorite quote by Scarlet O’Hara, from ‘Gone with the Wind’).
Into the lap of nature
And, oh girl, was it another day! At the crack of dawn, I was up again for my next adventure, to Larch Valley, celebrated for the eye-catching golden hues of its larch trees. To get the finest views of the valley, one has to hike 9km, a round trip that takes anywhere between three and six hours, and includes a climb of 1,700ft.
I met up with some friends of friends for the hike (I’m very good at making connections when travelling!), and we reached the start point early in the morning—the only transit options are the Parks Canada shuttle, taxis, cycling, or a tour. The trail begins from the shores of the beautiful Moraine Lake, at which I took a peek and promised myself I’d return and spend some time in its embrace.
The initial part of the hike was through forested areas and had steep climbs, but the trails were well defined and not at all difficult. As I trekked, Moraine’s glacial blue waters played hide and seek, teasing me to see them on my way down. Slowly, the larch trees started to appear. A little further up and the forest gave way to a valley. In fall, the larch leaves turn bright yellow before they flutter down. The trees are a sight to behold against the white of the rugged snow-covered mountains. I was stunned into silence by the amazing beauty of this place. Everywhere I looked there was something new, and I wished I could stay for hours just marvelling endlessly at nature’s extravaganza.
However, it was time to move on.
The same trail continues to Sentinel Pass and while some people turned back from this spot, we decided to go a little further up to Minnestimma Lake (en route, we saw the mighty Mount Temple and Pinnacle Mountain). Soon, we were at the lake, which was encircled by gorgeous mountain scenery. By Minnestimma, a girl lay down on a rock and gazed at the snow-topped peaks and glaciers, against the backdrop of the bright blue sky. One look at her and I could almost imagine the peace and tranquility she must have felt at that moment—the same happiness that was flowing through my veins.
At last it was time to return, and as we descended, I was determined to see Moraine Lake. My friends weren’t too enthusiastic but I assured them that I would only be a while. So, I scurried to the lake and then ascended the rocky patch to the top for an out-of-the-world vista of the lake. A sparkling glacial lake in an unimaginable shade of blue—was I dreaming or was it real? It was so blue it almost felt like someone had dyed the lake. Turns out that you only see the colours when it’s sunny, so make sure to time your visit with a day of bright sunshine.
While I was engrossed in appreciating the beauty of this place, I had forgotten all about my friends, who were waiting for me below! I took the ‘stairs’ path down and was soon with them; we all returned to Calgary the same night.
I collected a lifetime of memories on this trip, and fell in love with Canada, its rocky mountains and lakes. Hope you get to travel beyond the usual too, and fall in love with this beautiful country.
Important info:
Nearest airport: Calgary International Airport (YYC)
By road: Drive or take a bus/tour to Banff
Local travel within Banff: Roam Public Transit, Parks Canada shuttles, hike, drive
https://parks.canada.ca/ , https://hotsprings.ca/banff/
Anika Sabharwal is a travel-o-preneur and her USP is extraordinary experiences. She curates experiential trips and treks for niche groups, corporates and individuals
Insta: @mud_on_her_boots, WhatsApp: 8368212382
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