Subhasish Chakraborty 30 Aug, 2024
Gir is one of India’s top-end wildlife reserves and the last remaining habitat of the rare and elusive Asiatic Lion, which prowls in the haunting wilderness of the Gir Forest, spread out over 1,421.1sq km and designated as a Protected Area. An expanse covering 258.7sq km is marked as a National Park and another 1153.4sq km as an exclusive sanctuary. Here, the population of lions has shown remarkable growth, from only 177 in 1968 to around 400 now.
Sasan Gir, the land of the wild and the free, the feral and the beautiful, where the endless dry grasslands abound not just with lions—an imposing sight with their manes—but a stunning variety of wildlife, including some of the most magnificent specimens found anywhere on earth. We were here as part of a wildlife safari tour organised by the Indian Institute of Travel & Tourism Management, New Delhi.
Reaching Sasan Gir at the break of dawn after a tiring journey involving both rail and coach, we checked in at the wonderful Fern Gir Forest Resort, ideally situated at the edge of the forest. After refreshing ourselves, we had brunch when, surprisingly, it started raining. The bellboy told us that it hadn’t rained for almost a year. We were indeed lucky! For, when the rains come, they put on a show no entertainer can ever match. In their wake, the trees wore a fresh, washed look, the animals looked as if they were sporting new coats, and the earth took on the distinctive smell of petrichor. It was magic!
After lazing around on the balcony for almost an hour, we decided to venture out into the wilderness of Gir. As our coach proceeded towards the sanctuary, an overwhelming sense of peace engulfed us. At times it felt as if fortune had blessed us with a safe haven, so far were we from the bustle and din of metropolitan India. Slowly and surely, the evergreen forest cover took us into its embrace.
Midway, we saw a herd of deer grazing in the grassland. Much to our delight, the herd made its way towards the marshy area bordering the road. Our guide instructed us not to make any noise, for it might distract the deer and frighten them away. We made no noise all right, but there followed a frenzied clicking of cameras, the results of which would serve as a great memory of the trip.
A full day lay ahead of us, and our tour guide had planned a trip to the heart of the jungle, which we were eagerly anticipating.
The forest reveals its secrets
It is said that the real beauty of Gir unfolds once one goes deep inside the forest. Here, besides lions, you can spot the leopard (as elusive as the lion), as well as the jungle cat and rusty-spotted cat (we were especially fascinated by the Indian Buffalo, whose sheer immensity was something to behold). Among the prey species, there are the Cheetal, Sambar, four-horned antelope, wild boar and hare. Gir is also home to peacocks and parakeets, but with more than 200 species of avifauna, this place is a birdwatcher’s delight. And the dazzling lakes and rivulets only serve to enhance its aesthetic beauty.
Then suddenly, not far from the dirt track, our driver pulled up. “Lion!” he exclaimed, pointing to his right. The animal sprang forward with lightning speed and in an instant it had a dik-dik—the smallest member of the antelope family—hanging limp in its powerful jaws. The encounter was brief, dramatic and savage. Yet, far from being cruel, there was a strange beauty about it. This was where the real action took place, in three-dimensional and unedited splendour, right in front of our eyes.
As darkness enveloped the sky, our driver suggested that we return to the resort. So, we reluctantly headed back, my buddy Amit providing the soundtrack by singing a few numbers from U2’s ‘The Joshua Tree’. From the lawn at Fern Gir, we looked across the herd of buffaloes, and beyond we could hear the eerie call of the wild. Tired but grateful, we sat beside a log fire reflecting happily on the day’s adventures.
After a good night’s sleep and a light breakfast, we were ready for the journey to the core area of the forest. Gir, we were told, was a mosaic of woods, grasslands, swamps and streams, with an unparalleled diversity of flora and fauna. On the banks of a rivulet was a salt lick, to which a herd of deer wandered to quench their thirst. That day, the word ‘Eden’ took on a new meaning. There was silence everywhere and not a soul could be seen.
It was hauntingly wild and beautiful, a fact recognised by the authorities and resort owners at Gir, which is why there are appeals to visitors to not crowd or disturb the animals. Later, in an impromptu session, conservationists informed us of the ways in which they are redefining wildlife conservation in the forest. According to Debasish Muduli, general manager of Fern Gir Forest Resort, “Tourism is important to the economy but in Gir—or for that matter, in any of India’s wildlife reserves and parks—the animals have the right of way.” And so they do.
By late afternoon, we decided to rest near a shimmering creek. Meanwhile, two lionesses had crept up to the left of the coach, and since we all had our heads turned to the right, staring at the male, they stood barely a metre away looking into the front left window. Once the male settled down, my friend Sachin turned around and found himself staring into the mouth of one of the lionesses, who happened to be yawning. Scary stuff, indeed!
A little ahead, we came across another lioness with the most adorable cubs. They were rolling and jumping about, making the most of their carefree days before they begin thinking about hunting for their own food. Back at the resort, we discovered that two other groups had also encountered the same lioness, and were raving about their resplendent manes. Certainly, we were all left mesmerised by our encounters with the king of the jungle.
All that walking was great fun but it made us hungry, so it was a delight to see our cook Ananda using his secret marinade to baste a butterfly-boned leg of lamb on the barbecue. Thrilled by our exploits, and in mood for some more action, we approached the resort’s management and suggested a midnight bash. All of us had to drape in white. Liquor flowed freely, the table brimmed with goodies, and tribal dancers performed to the beat of a drum. A starlit dinner was exactly what the doctor ordered to bring to an end a truly unforgettable Gir safari, the memories of which will linger on for a lifetime.
Traveller’s Fact File
By air: The nearest airports are Rajkot (150km), Ahmedabad (381km) and Diu (104km); closest international airport is Mumbai
By rail: The railway station at Sasan Gir is just a few kilometres away, and the one at Junagadh 65km
Accommodation: The outstanding and award-winning Fern Gir Forest Resort is one of the best options. It has Wi-Fi, two in-house restaurants for fine dining, a spa, swimming pool and state-of-the-art conferencing facilities. Set amidst picturesque natural surroundings, Fern Gir has 40 marvellously appointed villas and suites (there are also secret hideaway cottages and luxurious tents)
For further information on Gir National Park
Fern Gir Forest Resort
SH-26, Sasan Road, District Junagadh, Sasan Gir
Gujarat 362135
Phone: (mobile) +91 90 990 49262 (landline) +91 2877 285 999
Email: gm@ferngirforestresort.com
#AsiaticLionHabitat, #GirForestNationalPark, #SasanGirWildlifeSafari, #FernGirForestResort, #IndianWildlifeReserves
