Vickrham (Vicky) 13 Mar, 2026
For years, Manish Mehrotra has been the name everyone drops
when talking about the reinvention of Indian food. He’s the guy who made blue
cheese naan and meetha aachar famous, turning them into global talking points.
Then, just as the food scene drowned itself in liquid nitrogen and gold leaf,
Mehrotra quietly slipped out of the spotlight.
But now—he’s
back. Nisaba, his new restaurant, just opened, and it’s nothing like the big
hotel gigs. Instead, he’s chosen Sunder Nursery, right in the green, historic
heart of Delhi.
A New Map for an Old Soul
You will find Nisaba on the first floor of the Humayun’s
Tomb Museum. At 4,200 square feet, it’s the flagship of Manish Mehrotra
Culinary Arts, his new company. The timing feels almost poetic. Delhi's food scene is wild right now.
Vineet Bhatia rules one end, Gaggan Anand is about to make his move, and
everyone’s fighting for attention.
But Mehrotra? He’s not chasing the crowd. While some chefs
are busy with endless tasting menus, Nisaba takes a different route: simplicity
and nostalgia.
The Menu: A Joyride Through Food Memories
“People
don’t want to sit through a three-hour meal anymore. He told me. So, Nisaba skips the
marathon tasting and goes for a playful, 42-dish a la carte menu.
A couple of dishes really stopped me in my tracks. The Miso
Grilled Fish in Tamarind—wow.
The miso brings this deep, earthy flavor, and then the tamarind hits you with a
zing that’s both familiar and totally new. Then there are the Mango Chunda Pork
Ribs. Imagine the sweet-spicy punch of Gujarati chunda slathered on ribs. It’s
a reminder that sometimes, the best “innovations" are just old favorites with a clever
twist.
Other highlights? Sure:
• Street
Throwbacks: Samosa Moradabadi Dal, with a hit of tangy buknu masala.
• Delhi
Staples: Paneer Pakoras, but with a sharp, kimchi-onion kick.
•
Student Days: Tawa Chicken Dirty Rice, straight from the busy streets of
Mumbai.
The Man Behind the Menu: Chef or Restaurateur?
But really, Nisaba secret ingredient is Mehrotra himself. Sit down with him for five minutes, and
you get it—the man
is still the “OG.” Even with all the fame, he is approachable, curious, and just
plain fun to talk to.
I teased him, asking if he's now more restaurateur than chef. He laughed, eyes
twinkling, and said, “Pehle
dal mein namak check karna padta tha, ab deewar ka paint check karna padta hai.” (Earlier I had to check the salt in
the dal; now I have to check the paint on the walls.)
That's him—humble, funny, always ready to ask “what if?” He pays attention to everything,
from the seasoning in the food to the color on the walls. Nothing is routine.
Everything is an
experiment.
Sips and Spirits: Understated Elegance
The drinks menu? Quietly impressive. They are not trying to dazzle you with
tricks, just good choices—a solid
80-label wine list, smart pairings like crisp Rieslings and Tempranillos that
actually work with Indian spices, and cocktails like the Banana Chilli Shadow
for those who like a little heat.
Why Nisaba Matters
Nisaba is not
Mehrotra reinventing himself. It's
him, distilled—no
gimmicks. While everyone else is fussing over Instagram-perfect dishes, he's betting on comfort and familiarity.
He's going back to the heart of Indian hospitality, where food sparks conversation, the setting has a story, and the flavors hit home but still surprise you. Turns out, true masters don't have to chase trends. They just have to invite us in and remind us why we loved their food in the first place.
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